The Rosé Revolution

Bye bye blushing Whispering Angel, see ya sweet Zinfandel

I started thinking about this article back in March – you know, before rosé season. I’d had enough of the boring blush of Whispering Angel and its Provençale cousins, and I was ready to introduce people to some tastier alternatives. But then I got mired in research and now here we are, five months later, jumping on a bandwagon.

In the intervening period, I’ve seen articles about the death of swimming pool rosé in the Guardian, the new (actually: old) trend for darker, fuller-bodied rosés in Decanter, Substack’s own

Fiona Beckett

sharing her always spot-on opinions about rosé, and even an article I wrote myself about Portuguese rosé (which is, understandably, not often in the pale Provence style but has also evolved far beyond sweet, fizzy Mateus).

And yet, despite all this in the wine media, I wonder how many consumers out there still think paler is better? Or that dark pink rosé = sweet wine? Anecdotal evidence among my friends and in-laws suggests that these perceptions have not yet shifted (and I’ve never known my own family to stoop to rosé at all). So before we start, let’s just dispel one myth about the colour of rosé:

The depth of hue – whether ultra-pale coral or a crimson so deep it looks like a light red – is defined by the length of time the grape juice spends in contact with the grape skins. It has nothing to do with sugar levels – just the colour leeching out of those red grape skins. That’s it, folks.

White Zinfandel (in reality pink), which was so popular in the late 1970s and ‘80s, is sweet because not all of the sugar in the grapes was converted into alcohol. There’s zero connection with its rather lurid colour. If you don’t like it (and I don’t either), please don’t let it put you off darker-hued rosés. In fact, if you like whites that are fuller in body or reds that have some tannins, you’ll probably enjoy a darker rosé.

Six pink wines that are redefining rosé

Whether you prefer wines that are bone-dry and citrusy, full-bodied and berry-heavy, or even sweetly sparkling, I truly believe there’s a rosé out there with your name on it.

1. Tenuta Antonini, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Italy (2022)

Let’s start in central Italy, where the rosé makers in Abruzzo are using the region’s signature red Montepulciano grapes to making dashing pinks. I loved the refreshing watermelon and pink grapefruit hit from Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, followed by intense yet smooth pomegranate, with medium body and a long finish. Available in the Netherlands via Altijd de Beste Wijn and in the UK via The Wine Society.

2. Mora & Memo, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, Sardinia

Still in Italy but from the island of Sardinia, Mora & Memo’s rosé is a bold wine full of red berries but with comforting notes of vanilla and warm spices.  I tasted this at a wine bar in Palau on Sardinia’s north coast, which is why I didn’t note the vintage, but I did remark that it packs a serious punch for such a salmony hue.

3. Bodegas Gratias, Castilla la Mancha, Spain (2022)

This pick is possibly pushing the boundaries of what can be considered a rosé. Made from the Spanish Bobal grape, Gratias rosé so dark it’s more like a clarete (somewhere between a red and a rosé). You can feel that the wine has stayed in longer contact with the grape skins through the tannins on your tongue, making this rosé a better wine to drink with food than on its own. Serve only lightly chilled – not as cold as a lighter rosé – and you’ll be rewarded with tannic textures and flavours that are thick with maraschino cherries. (Note that this is a natural wine so there’s a bit of sediment at the bottom.)

4. Conde Villar, Vinho Verde rosé, Portugal (2023)

I knew we’d make it back to Portugal eventually! Firstly to the north, land of light and spritzy Vinho Verde. Conde Villar’s rosé is made from 50% Espadeiro and 50% Touriga Nacional – both native Portuguese grapes. On the nose, it’s all about citrus and green melon. On the palate, it has the light effervescence you’d expect from a Vinho Verde but coupled with bright, juicy raspberries and strawberries, plus a touch of residual sugar. It would pair perfectly with a summer picnic.

5. Paxá Rosé Premium, Vinho Regional Algarve, Portugal (2023)

Paxá’s premium rosé is made entirely from Touriga Nacional, briefly macerated to give it a slightly darker colour and a little more skin contact. Flavour-wise, it’s a field of wild strawberries, but the wine also has a roundness and kiss of vanilla from spending six months aging in small, used French oak barrels. This is rosé with personality.

6. Mucho Más Rosado, Spain (no vintage, no region!)

Controversial final pick here, but if your budget is under €10, you can’t go wrong with the highly drinkable, grenache-based Mucho Más Rosado. Yes, the berry fruit can be a little candied, and don’t expect a lot of complexity, but it’s still delicious, refreshing and wallet-friendly. Right now, it’s on discount at Gall & Gall for only €5.69 a bottle!

Where to buy wine online

This week’s picks are from all over the place, and I’ve tried to provide links to Dutch online stores where possible as that’s where I’m based. However, I know some of you are in the UK, the US and elsewhere so here’s my usual list of reliable wine websites where you may be able to find the same or similar. The usual caveat applies: some of these are affiliate links, but this in no way affects the wines I recommend.

• Colaris – Netherlands

• Decántalo – Netherlands

• 8Wines – Netherlands and Belgium

• Majestic – UK

• Virgin Wines – UK

• Naked Wines – UK and US

• Total Wine – US

• One Stop Wine Shop – US

• Wine on Sale – US