The Other Rioja

How Viura stole my heart from Tempranillo

Nov 21, 2024

When people walk into the wine shop I work in on Fridays and ask for “a Rioja,” I know exactly what they mean: they’re looking for a full-bodied red, Tempranillo-led, with some degree of oak ageing. In fact, that last part and their budget are the only things I really need to ask them about to determine my recommendation. And that’s not surprising: 91% of all Rioja produced and sold is red. And of the red grape varieties being grown in the region, over 85% is Tempranillo.

But there’s a whole other category of Rioja that rarely gets a look in: Rioja Blanco. In the summer, when I was living in Friesland and not looking forward to coming home to autumn in Amsterdam, I found myself putting in a hefty online wine order (some girls buy shoes; I buy wine). Subconsciously, at least half of the whites I’d ordered were from Rioja. It seemed I had a new wine obsession.

Ever since then, I’ve been meaning to write an article about “the other Rioja”: the neglected sister to the famous red Rioja. And on Monday, I was lucky enough to attend a masterclass in white Rioja by sommelier Guillaume Coret, which kicked me into gear to get on and write it. So here goes…

A very short history of Rioja Blanco, from Viura to Verdejo

(Feel free to skip straight to the tasting bit if you’re not into all the details – I had trouble editing myself this week.)

For much of the 20^th century, the grape variety Viura dominated white Rioja (although Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía were also allowed), and its neutral flavour was often supplemented with extended ageing in American oak barriques to provide a richer profile. The same barrel/bottle ageing classification system (Generic, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva) was applied to white Rioja as it was to red, albeit with different age requirements per category.

Historically, deliberate oxidation was sometimes a feature as well, giving the wines almost sherry-like flavours of walnut and caramel. But by the 1980s, “white Rioja – especially mature, barrel- and bottle-aged white Rioja – was becoming profoundly unfashionable,” according to Tim Atkin, who’s a Master of Wine and should know what he’s talking about.

Fast forward to the current century, and things started changing. For a start, six new white grapes were permitted to be used: indigenous varieties Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Turruntés, as well as international varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. There was also a backlash against the heavily oaked fashion of the 1970s and ‘80s, and winemakers started making light, stainless steel-fermented Rioja as the public’s tastes changed.

It was Telmo Rodriguez, however, who’s widely credited with reviving Rioja’s whites. Born to a winemaking family in Rioja, he championed the concept of vinos de pueblo (village wines) that reflect their specific terroir. He was already making his innovative white blends as far back as the 1990s but (like most fashions) it look a while for the trend to catch on – not to mention for the regulations to catch up. According to Atkin, Rodriguez “was the first person to pursue a third way between the traditional style (both good and bad) and the stainless-steel-fermented one. This was the fertile ground in which many of Rioja’s best whites have flourished since.” (My dog did not agree.)

The definition of diversity

I served a white Rioja to some friends at dinner recently (Viña Real’s 2021 Blanco Fermentado Barrica to be precise), and it was a big hit. One of them asked me: “So if I like this, will all other white Riojas taste the same?” It’s a fair question: when we give wine a label, consumers will naturally come to expect a certain style and flavour from that name. In practice, that’s rarely true in wine, and never has it been less true than in white Rioja.

Broadly speaking, white Riojas are likely to fall into three approximate styles: young, unoaked wines; oak-aged, long-lasting wines; and modern, terroir-driven wines in which oak appears only in the background. But of course within those winemaking styles, there will still be huge differences. As mentioned, there are now nine permitted white grape varieties in Rioja: some, like Malvasía and Sauvignon Blanc, are aromatic; others are far more neutral. The Rioja region’s huge surface area (it’s 100 kilometres long) means there’s major diversity in terms of climate, soil, altitude and aspect – all of which affect those grapes.

Vintage variation is an issue everywhere: one growing season may be far warmer or cooler than the next. But in Rioja, that vintage variation can occur in the winery as well. I remember ordering a white Rioja for a group of us at a restaurant in Amsterdam: the first bottle was oaky and a little oxidative; the second was less oaky and completely fresh. I checked the labels: although they were “the same wine,” the first was from 2020 and the second from 2021. It seemed the winery had had a change of heart.

So what does white Rioja taste like?

With all this in mind, it’s very difficult to pin down any kind of consistent flavour profile. For me, Viura-led wines often veer tropical (pineapple, lychee, melon), while those with Malvasía in the mix tend to be more floral. Both Garnacha Blanca and Tempranillo Blanca often make me think of beeswax, in the best possible way (like one of those delicious smelling natural candles).

Oaked examples of Rioja Blanco can take on strong vanilla notes, or they can sway more sandalwood (probably the effect of American oak versus French oak). While those that have aged for a long time in bottle make me think of apricot jam and marmalade. I generally find most white Riojas to be very food friendly, because they’re so well-balanced: medium acidity, plenty of body to stand up to lots of dishes, nice and versatile (think tapas). But as always, these are just a few highly subjective generalisations. I urge you to try a few and find out for yourself!

Seven white Riojas you might like

I bought a lot of these wines via Decántalo, because they have a strong selection of Spanish wines, including white Rioja. They’re offering a Black Friday deal between 25 November and 1 December, whereby they give you €10 for every €100 you spend when using coupon code BLACKFRIDAY. So it’s possibly worth stocking up for the festive season!

La Pinturera Rioja Garnacha Blanca (2021) – this has to be my current favourite: La Pinturera is made from 100% Garnacha Blanca and is all about that bees wax, citrus peel and ripe pear on the nose. On the palate, it has a touch of creaminess and smooth oak, but more sandalwood than vanilla. Available in Amsterdam at Bilderdijk Wijnhuys or online via Well of Wine.
Viña Real Blanco Fermentado Barrica (2021) – this was the wine that was a hit with my friends a few weeks ago (a couple of them even requested the name!). It’s refreshingly fruity but full-bodied and subtly oaky – an elegant and good-value example. Available via Decántalo.
Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria (2021) – a single vineyard Viura, this is a classic Rioja: full of tropical fruits, hazelnuts and smoky oak. Available via Decántalo.
Bodega Queirón Mi Lugar Blanco (2021) – made from 100% Tempranillo Blanco, this wine undergoes four different fermentations: some with the grapes skins, some without, some in oak barriques, others not. That gives it a super interesting flavour profile (stone fruit, minty herbs, toasted almond) and loads of texture (oaky structure, fully body) that’s better tasted than described. Available via Sauter Wijnen.
Paco Garcia El Yergo (2023) – also made from Tempranillo Blanco, El Yergo is more restrained: citrus and cedar, mineral with a touch of aniseed. Available via Decántalo.
Inigo Amezola (2019) – another Viura, but this time with three days of maceration on the grape skins, lending the wine apricot jam, marmalade and caramel flavours. Delicious with cheese. Available via Bodegas Amezola de la Mora (and probably other places if you search in your country).
Bodegas de la Marquesa Valserrano Blanco (2022) – a Viura-led blend that apparently has spent some time in new French oak, but to me it was more creamy than it was oaky. With its elderflower blossom and white peach aromas, it reminded me a bit of a Torrontés from Argentina (though less aromatic). Available from various places according to Wine-Searcher, although I’m not sure where in the Netherlands.